Thursday, July 10, 2014

Concept of body in minimalism (60's)

Anti-figurative form is one of the component of Minimalism. This idea which related to the idea of form over function (mentioned in the previous post) removes the idea of a 'figure' in terms of gender and human form from clothing.

Kimono would be a perfect example of clothing that 'eliminates gender distinction, and negate the sexuality frequently imbued in Western clothing'. Genderless, ageless and weightless body were being pictured by the emphasis of this idea. "I learned about space between the body and the fabric from the traditional kimono... not the style, but the space" said Issey Miyake.
(Ventus, 2013.)

Space acts as an important element to this idea in Minimalism especially in the 60's era. The fascination of space exploration were spread widely during the 1960s, they called it the Space Age. Some of the significant designers of that time would be Pierre Cardin and André Courrèges.

Pierre Cardin with the ability to sculpt fabric with an architectural sensibility made it his signature. His experimentation with fabrics focused on geometric abstract yet not losing the sight of a human figure. In 1964, Cardin's Space Age or Cosmocorps collection showcased his streamlined and minimal apparel. This body-skimmy clothing featured cutouts also Cardin's innovation in using vinyl and metal combined with wool fabric. Cardin's clothing that was ignoring the female form, often unisex and asexual showed the idea of anti-figurative. (Fashion Bank, n.d.)


Pierre Cardin’s Space Age clothing on the cover of The Sunday Times Magazine, 1967.


Pierre Cardin, 1960-1971.

[FLASHBACK: Pierre Cardin – 63 Years of Design & Counting] 2013. [images online] Available at:<http://blog.thedpages.com/flashback-pierre-cardin-63-years-of-design-counting[Accessed on: 17 July 2014]



André Courrèges's design collection were architecturally-sculpted like double-breasted coats with contrasting trim, minidresses with dropped waistlines and detailed welt seaming, big extravagant sunglasses, breast pockets, square-toed midcalf boots and helmet-shaped hats. (Fashion Bank, n.d.)  He is the first to combine trousers with tunics and allowed to the woman to wear trousers. The combination of man and woman components as well as masculine style (trousers and flat-heeled shoes) in the female clothing (Stoykov, 2008.) clearly showed the concept of body that was anti-figurative.


André Courrèges, 1960s.

[André Courrèges Or The Futurism In Fashion] 2014. [images online] Available at:<http://www.fashion-lifestyle.net/designers_en_broi12[Accessed on: 17 July 2014]

[André Courrèges] 2013. [images online] Available at:<http://www.my-fashionbank.com/articles/article25.html[Accessed on: 17 July 2014]





Reference:
DPAGES. (2013) André Courrèges Or The Futurism In Fashion[Online] Available at:<http://blog.thedpages.com/flashback-pierre-cardin-63-years-of-design-counting> [Accessed: 14 July 2014] 

Fashion Bank. (n.d.) Pierre Cardin. [Online] Available at:<http://www.my-fashionbank.com/articles/article34.html> [Accessed: 11 July 2014] 

Stoykov, L. (2008) André Courrèges Or The Futurism In Fashion. [Online] Available at:<http://www.fashion-lifestyle.net/designers_en_broi12> [Accessed: 11 July 2014] 

Ventus, G. (2013) Defining Minimalism In Fashion. [Online] Available at:<http://the-rosenrot.com/2013/08/defining-minimalism-in-fashion.html [Accessed: 11 July 2014] 

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